Banff - June 24: Canadian cheese, you have redeemed yourself

I was all set to write a diatribe bemoaning the state of Canadian cheese. Horrible orange dye aside, even the most simple white cheddar is just horrible. First of all, the texture is just wrong. I bought what should have been a lovely organic white cheddar in the market the other day and it was _sticky and crumbly at the same time_. Wrong, just wrong. Then there's the taste. Slightly bitter with an aftertaste that makes you reach for something to wash it away with. And this has consistently been my experience for the past month and a half. What happened to your cheese Canada? I remember it much better that this. But then maybe my taste has, ahem, improved beyond your merge reaches.

But then, oh then, in one fell swoop you have redeemed yourself entirely. After a lovely late afternoon soak in Banff's hotsprings, chatting with two visiting Torontonians about of all things, French literature and organ musicianship, I decided to continue my indulgence with a drink on a beautiful sunlit patio in downtown Banff. Graham, my wonderful waiter, gently encouraged me to try the house specialty, fondue. He even arranged a half serve for my lonely self (the usual serve is for two or more) and I am so very glad he did. The melted gruyere was absolute bliss with a nice local pinot grigio. Oh, oh, and the dish of roasted garlic cloves that went with it. Oh dear god. While the cheese was Swiss and the wine Californian, somehow, Canada, you have redeemed yourself ever so slightly as far as cheese is concerned.

So loaded with tasty, tasty cheese (dear god, Tim, if you ever make it to Banff, this place has a 4 course fondue dinner!), I am back at my campsite for my last night relative civilisation. I do hope I can get to a net cafe early tomorrow morning to post this before I head off for a week of back-country horse rising. And now I must go pack my bags, bearing in mind that everything I bring has to be carted by a mule. I promise, poor beast of burden, that I will pack light with your well-being foremost in my mind.